Part 1) Foundations to the Temple of Sound
It was
Christmas 1981. I would come to remember it as the best Christmas I had
ever had. It was the last one where all of my older siblings would
attend at my parents’ house before having families of their own and/or
starting careers that would take them far away from our little farm in
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. Micronauts. Silly Putty. One of those
chocolate letters that came in the shape of our first initials as per Dutch
tradition at Kerstdagen, as the old country family would call it in the
cards they would send around Yuletide. But the most important gift I
would get that year was a ten dollar gift certificate from Sam the Record Man.
I was getting more and more into heavier music than the ABBA albums that
I had started off with, just recently acquiring Back in Black and Blizzard of
Ozz. This time though, I wanted to get a Rush album. I had first
heard Rush while wandering the halls of my high school, waiting for my father
to come get me after missing the bus one day. The caretakers were setting
up the gymnasium for bingo and I heard ‘Limelight’ for the first time, streaming
from their ghettoblaster. The song drew me in, so fresh and yet so
strong, giving me a real feeling of something different yet comfortingly
familiar. I asked one of the caretakers whose song it was and he told me
it was Rush.
So that Boxing
Day, my older sister and brother-in-law drove me and my two brothers through
the slush of the soggy Southern Ontario winter to the Pen Center in St.
Catharines, where I singlemindedly sought out whatever album “Limelight” would
be on. When I found it and pulled it out of its place within all those other
albums, it was like holding something ominous in my hands. The LP was, of
course, Moving Pictures. I eyed the cover with its almost sinister but stately
glowing red title font then immediately caught the clever triple entendre with
the concept of a ‘moving picture’: workers moving paintings into the Ontario
Provincial Legislature, a family moved to tears on the steps as the paintings
went by, and on the back, a shot of a movie set of the whole scene from the
front cover It showed right away both the band’s sharp intelligence and
goofy multi-planed sense of humour all at once. Once I got home, I ripped
through the shrink wrap and put the vinyl platter on the turntable to let the
needle do its magic. Of course, you know that feeling, when you are
hearing something for the first time and it seems to open a new chapter in your
life, as if you’ve arrived at a home you had never seen before but would
sustain you for the rest of your days. As the album played, I studied the inner
sleeve, reading the lyrics and then the liner notes. I wanted to know
where it had been recorded, hoping it had been in Canada, being Canada’s
premier band at the time as they were. Le Studio, it said. Morin
Heights, Quebec.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpI-adq203K8StxiHneeEFkhamTTQ6F7v75Fxfd4s_47DBYIQqv4ZMHsUuv84CcuTUIkI2ngvuKjtwOlIi1bxbnHh0rd-tydjiOb57HpU9MGuodxzO-uqpDS261i4pa0Eod70KLimTDs/s320/Le+10.jpg)
Built in 1972,
Le Studio was the brainchild of one Andre Perry, who had recently gotten
notoriety as the engineer for John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s Give Peace A Chance
recording in a hotel room in Montreal. Perry wanted to create an
‘environmental studio’, as opposed to a completely walled off and sterile
structure in which to record. He wanted there to be complete freedom to
create sounds, while having full view of the gorgeous views afforded to by the
Laurentian hills and lakes. He employed carpenter/contractor Jean-Paul Coulombe to put his
ideas to work and succeeded to introduce its unique recording experience to the
world of rock and roll. Soon, established rock bands would come to record
there. Cat Stevens, Nazareth, The Bee Gees and April Wine would stay at
the guest house across the lake and paddle across Lac Perry to put in their
hours to produce their albums. A big draw for bands was the facility’s
recording console and master system, the SSL 4000, which was state of the art
at its time. Their unit was only the second of its kind in existence; the
only other one residing at Abbey Road studios in London, England.
When Rush arrived
to record their Permanent Waves album in the fall of 1979, they all immediately
fell in love with the wholesome natural surroundings and partook in the outdoor
activities it had at their disposal. It was a healthy and refreshing
retreat for the band, and came to be the impetus of many lifelong loves that
they would have later on, such as cross-country skiing, canoeing, hiking and volleyball. Neil
Peart himself fell in love with the Laurentian hills and soon bought property
in the vicinity, where he raised his daughter Selena, and later spent time in
dark solitude after Selena’s and his wife Jackie’s deaths. Today he still
lives there part time with his second wife Carrie and their daughter Olivia,
while the other half of their time is spent living in Los Angeles.
Other bands
would later record landmark albums there. The Police would record parts
of Synchronicity there. Kim Mitchell, Shaking Like a Human Being.
David Bowie, Tonight. Sarah Maclachlan, Fumbling Towards
Ecstasy. The list goes on and on. Over time, Andre Perry would
add on practice rooms, offices and a film studio for special effect
cinematography. Perry was an enterprising man and knew what niches to
fill, what needs could be satisfied. Eventually though, he wanted to move
on to other things and sold the studio in 1988. Inexplicably, in 1993
that buyer sold it at a loss to a nameless corporation, which announced vaguely
that they were going to turn it into a musician’s retreat. That
enterprise never materialized and in 2008, the company gutted the valuable
equipment inside and closed its doors for good.
For years, the
studio sat empty. No one seemed to take notice as it languished in the
Laurentian forest. In 2010, Banger Films filmed a documentary of the
history of Rush, and managed to have Neil come up to the property to take a
look around. The footage shows the glass and cedar shakes still intact, while
Neil said that ,it was sad to see it that way.
He looked through the window out back and
reminisced at how he had set his kit right there in front. He spoke of the
image that sparked the imaginations of so many Rush fans, myself included.
Heads shake, eyes downcast. Sigh philosophically, turn around, go
home. Leave it behind.
In 2015, news
reports started to come out that the site had been broken into and vandalized.
Youtube videos started to emerge of broken glass and graffitied walls.
I saw those images and couldn’t believe what I was seeing. The
Youtubers would record their infiltration, drawl a heavy “wow” and titter like
schoolboys at the vulgarity. Drink your beer, filch a souvenir off the
floor, turn around, walk away, go home. Leave it behind.
Part 2) Pilgrimage to the Ruins of a Rock ‘N’ Roll Mecca
This summer,
the summer of 2017, I was given an opportunity to go and see the place for
myself. I was finishing a three day stay
in Montreal (Un Espace a Repose), and had resolved to drive north to Morin Heights to pay my own
respects to my own rock ‘n’ roll Mecca. So after getting properly
caffeinated with Italian coffee, I left the city and followed route 15 towards
the Laurentian Mountains, “Workin Them Angels” off of Rush's Snakes and
Arrows album played boldly from my cd player. I had brought both
Permanent Waves and Moving Pictures along as well, but I wanted to save them
for when I would be closer to the site. I chose Snakes and Ladders for
its intensity and themes of movement and travel. Many Rush songs had that
theme, likely because of all the hours Neil spent on the road, whether in a
Winnebago, a tour bus, on a ten-speed bike or a BMW motorcycle.
There were
place signs along the highways identifying small destinations along the way,
all of them named after Catholic saints. The names signified the strong
foundation the Church had in the first days of settlement in Quebec, and
suggested a strong spirituality underlying everything. Seeing all the urban
sprawl and commercial renderings that North American culture is rampant with, I
wasn’t sure how deep that spirituality could be. The saintliness could
exist there only in name, but with my own deep Catholic heritage, I took
comfort in seeing signs for Ste Agathe des Monts or Ste Anne de Lacs. I
would need that comfort, driving through the persistent rain and fog that had
come to the area that day. I knew the hills could be quite picturesque
and kept the camera of my phone ready to snap any sights I would see, but had
to resign myself to hazy vistas of green and grey. Coming into the hills, the
cd arrived at the song “Faithless”, Neil’s ode to worldly wonder in the
absence of organized religious faith: “I don’t have faith in faith, I don’t
believe in belief. You can call me Faithless, but I still cling to
Hope, and I believe in Love, and that’s faith enough for me.”
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpMd1X9K4zwp7E4tn4o6SvR5mN60L_euhPil8Lwl0S_iW2sxYumFKZQOmiT_QPjcwEZr6znj89aHjQTCH1b5uUuU11GqhfBHlmR41q3pe1dvv_AO_xAg1l4g8XHZK4bGjEqOPRZIxNDRs/s320/2017-07-01+11.49.43.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcHevpO6nd-auCRSn7agTjpA4ufHtpQ9qqb2Glc16rhuBhFACQtqnb_BuSaVx1PjDOpOEwkTuD7FN5HA33FYdfL4KpMwXvpf-vCie6gtLRk9HbIE7L5MRB0Mxm8qkkf1HG3AC8oHquRDQ/s320/Le+9.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKETbdTsQ1BpAgL6N9-i8jQxEWSnX_EP3KGN5btVhW5yfwHmnRR2Jbf66bWkcEENROVaiAuvhPiceiFnma337chvyjJvewgxyJerjrkOuArx2yHaZbl3lsm4HuVb67Z5jzlmZajiFQBDY/s320/2017-07-01+11.53.14.jpg)
Part 3) Fables of the
Reconstruction
When I returned to Ottawa, it was a remarkably simple two
hour/two turn drive straight down route 329 south to highway 50 west. It was a picturesque trip, with the winding
329 and the 50 affording vistas of the emerging Outaouais Region beneath the
rising Gatineau Hills, through which the highway was carved deep into its granite
mantle. Once in Gatineau, I could find
my own way to the Champlain Bridge and I was soon back in Ottawa. It was Canada Day and the downtown was
basically inaccessible because of the Canada 150 celebrations, even though rain
had been coming down intermittently all that day. When I finally pulled into my driveway, the
rain had stopped and I considered possibly following through with my plan to go
to the lookout bunker at Remic Rapids to watch the fireworks over Parliament
Hill. The bunker had an unobstructed
view of The Hill, so I figured if I got there early enough with a lawn chair, I
could get a good show. Lightning crashed. Thunder roared and sheets of rain blanketed the
earth anew. Foiled those plans.
Still reeling from the outrageous sights I had seen in Morin
Heights, I sought out Richard Baxter, who is the man spearheading a campaign to
rebuild and restore Le Studio. I
had found about his efforts a few months prior and thought I would donate to it
by buying a tee shirt. I don't know how he got the rights to use the logo, but there it was, up for sale, emblazoned on a black tee. He sent me the
shirt along with a few business cards, asking if I would spread the word for
him, which I did, though most people I spoke to seemed cynical about it. Why would this one guy be so interested in this project? I had been planning to post some pictures and
I wanted to make sure it was a safe thing to do and I wouldn’t be accused of
trespassing. Richard responded and
assured me that the owner has allowed him and several other people to do this,
so I should not worry. That surprised
me. Where had he gotten the permission? Was it from Andre? Who were the owners? Why would they be so laissez faire about letting him walk in like that? Richard then went on to say that he would be
organizing a clean up in the near future.
He was in the midsts of getting permits and could give me a call when
things were a go. I told him I would
definitely be on board for that. I would finally be making a positive dent in the damage already done, I
thanked him told him to give me a call.
Two weeks went by and the rains left behind a heavy humidity
which the persistent sun ignited into a sweltering heat wave across what seemed
to be the whole swath of the 49th parallel. I went on a two night literary pub crawl with
some fellow writers one weekend, and visited my sister in Kingston for another
and was hoping to have some quiet days to hunker down and do some work on my
novel when the call from Richard came through.
He would be at the studio that Friday with a crew and we could start
some cleaning up in earnest that day. I
booked a dormitory bed at the Auberge et Micro-Brasserie le Baril Roulant in
nearby Val-David for $42, then hit the sunbaked road Thursday afternoon,
appreciating the opportunity to employ some “4 by 40 Air Conditioning”, which
means four car windows open and driving at a minimum of 40 miles an hour.
Val-David is a beautiful little town nestled in the
Laurentians, which seems to center itself around its winter industries; the ski
resorts that surround the place. It
definitely looked like it would be picturesque in the wintertime, lending one
neighbourhood’s nickname as Ville de Pere Noel, complete with Santa Claus signs
here and there along the side of the road.
Le Baril Roulant itself looked like a Swiss skiing chalet. Situated by a rambling river and a pretty
little park and trail, it had the perfect surroundings for me as a destination. Sitting on a picnic table and writing my
notes, I mused that if I could tolerate sleeping in a dorm full of strangers,
it would be nice stay. It turned out my
dorm mates, a couple university students and a family of a father and four
teenagers, were all as quiet and introverted as I was, so with the help of an
extra sleeping pill, I could sleep with my back to everyone and get a
sufficient amount of shut-eye. The next
morning, I awoke at 7 o’clock, showered, stealthily gathered my things and
split to a Tim Hortons for a croissant breakfast, some internet and a tall
coffee.
I arrived at the studio at nine that morning and the sun was shining. No one was parked in front of
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2pCm38g4T4dUhct9LEzG8LfiUlchlYezx9sizjxI8M_oqGZFKW8PlL065KrRBuuFGBxPeqfKuQ3ECYviNhi1rtEaYr_kL7_XGVUze2FJ7om06tNDVCgF8kzHED5pW0A0XMuH0fLhb29Y/s320/2017-07-21+09.32.07.jpg)
Going back down to my car to recharge my phone and wait further for Richard and crew, I thought about how haunted this place was. Haunted by memories, by the powerful energies that were once so alive here. How it was now also haunted by ghouls with evil intent, battling an almost apocalyptic struggle with the pure spirit of the place, the spirit that deserves to be protected and preserved. After a while, a car came up to drive. I obviously expected it to be Richard, but was surprised to see a woman getting out of the car. I introduced myself to her and she said her name was Danielle, and I was almost star-struck to hear she was the daughter of the man who had been contracted to furnish the studio, Jean-Paul Coulombe. Waiting for the rest of the crew to come, we struck up a conversation where she told me the history of the place from her father’s perspective. Jean-Paul had first gotten to know Andre when Perry had purchased a church in Montreal that he wanted converted into a studio. Jean-Paul did such a good job of it that when Andre wanted a studio built in Morin Heights, he was the man for the job for putting his interior design visions into wood and glass. Danielle said she remembers staying at the guest house across the lake during her summers growing up, and the many phone calls from Andre with more and more fantastic ideas that often had to be shot down by a more pragmatic Jean-Paul as the studio began to take shape. She told me the story of the time the guest house caught fire and how the musicians and technicians sleeping there had to leap out of windows in varying states of undress, into the snowdrifts to escape death. She also told me about the time when the SSL 4000 arrived and it took a team of men to struggle and carry the hulking monster up the stairs and through the doors. I asked her if she remembered the bands that came through the studio and she said that she was only 12 at the time when it opened, but could only remember the French artists, as she was more interested in them than the others.
She looked up at the building that sat on the rise above the
driveway and heaved a heavy sigh. She
hadn’t been there in about 30 years, since about the time when her father
passed away, which was also very near the time when Andre sold the
property. After her father’s passing,
the family had walked away, just as Andre had, and it was not until she had
heard about the damage it had sustained that she contacted Richard Baxter and
wanted to see it again. I went in with
her as she stepped through the doors for the first time since the late
Eighties. She couldn’t believe her
eyes. At every turn, she had a story to
provide, where the console room was, where the soundroom was, that was the
receptionist’s area, that was an addition that was added later on; all things that her father had a hand in installing. Like me, she couldn’t believe the audacity
that people had to come in and lay such havoc upon the place.
“My father Jean-Paul is probably spinning in his grave
right now,” she said.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYv1hBBtFJw2QCiODjANavRNTBtLHJrOzwETD8Jh73Eqrp_9w_s_L06guhlv9m6Sj-9AfHutp3Fqx8FaNQZr75LovruMgCRN_fB7MZfhT6URu6hbgUT23wrj9kWRLFDyCNf9kPXEl6Yw/s320/2017-07-21+14.59.48.jpg)
I thought of how all the major players seemed to have turned
their backs on this studio. Andre Perry is on record (link) saying that the place has
lost its soul now and he is happier with the memories of the people that have
made history here, rather than the structure itself. Nick Blagona, Andre’s business partner seems
to be of the same mind. All the members
of Rush are known to say that they hold a special space in their heart for Le
Studio, as Neil had written in his website journal in October of 2014. (link),
but he was content with leaving it all behind.
Neil is a progressive man, especially now; his eyes fixed forward rather
than back into the past.
For myself, and others like me that have seen the images
that furnish our memories of the music that provided the soundtrack to our
lives, it is inexcusable to see it in such a state of disrepair.
The current owners seem to just allow people to take liberty
with the place. The best of people will
come, those who want to preserve it and view it with a sense of reverence, so
we lovingly clean it up and hope to restore it.
Unfortunately however, those doors are also wide open to vandals who
take license to deface and desecrate it.
It seems now that we have reached a sickeningly teetering balance where
the lowest common denominator rules. We
can continue to clean it up and others will continue to destroy it more until
it burns down or has to be condemned. So
far, apathy, the vandals and the elements of nature are winning.
I worked until I was satisfied that I had at least restore
some order to the room. It was getting
late and I thought I had best leave soon to avoid a strange highway in the dark. There was a lot of work still to be done in
the rest of the place, but it looked like Richard and his crew had things in
hand. They would be there for the next
two days continuing to tear down the soggy drywall and shovel broken
glass. I had cleaned up the inner
sanctum of my rock temple, which was why I was there and that satisfied me that
far. I found Richard, bid him farewell
with a macho soulshake and chest hug, then hit the road again. Rather than taking the 50 all the way back, I
crossed the bridge over the Ottawa River at Hawkesbury and finished the trip on
route 17 into Ottawa. My thoughts
churned over the debacle of how we can really help Le Studio retain its former
glory. Someone at some level of
government needs to step in and protect it from further damage. Money needs to sink into it to ensure it does
not… what do I want to say? I can’t use
the phrase ‘fall into oblivion’ because what has been seen cannot be unseen,
nor can what has been heard, unheard.
The present is water, but the past is granite. Memories are indelible in a person’s
character. Our memories have shaped who
we are. So how can I deny this place
that has brought me so much happiness and inspiration? I don’t think anyone that has been there, in
person or in spirit, Builder, Artist or Patron, can deny the good from that
place. I still cling to Hope, and I
believe in Love. And that’s Faith enough
for me.
Post Script: Following that day, my mind was heavy with misgivings about what Richard was doing with the Studio for real. His website quickly became filled with pieces of that parquet flooring that I had scooped up that day, as well as the thick glass from the sound booth I had cleaned off the ground and rested off to the side. Clearly Richard was making money off this whole thing. I went on some Rush fan groups on Facebook and the mere mention of his name raised streams of rancour from those I talked to. He was a crook, he was a charlatan. They said that he had taken numerous fake identities to try and sell his stolen articles online and draw people towards his cause for rebuilding the studio. He had been very aggressively challenging people who called him out, and subsequently had himself removed from pretty much every group he had been involved in. To counter this, he then created his own groups, dozens of them, to try and lure people in to buy things from his site. The Geddy Lee Fan Club, Rush Lovers, Alex Lifeson Forever, and on and on. I started getting requests from these groups in my Facebook and Instagram and each time I blocked them, a new one would be in my messages. Richard Baxter has been a busy little boy.
Richard then messaged me personally telling me he would be doing another cleanup in August and asked if I would be there. I said I would not, citing a lack of money. He offered to put me up for the night at his own apartment, but the thought of sleeping in an ashtray didn't really appeal to me.
Then came the news. Just the evening before the cleanup, there was a fire at the studio and by looking at the pictures, it seemed that the entire office wing of the building was gone. The studio end seemed intact, but who could say what smoke and water damages it had taken. The vandals had gone too far. The timing was all too bizarre though. The night before the cleanup. Was Richard behind all this? What was happening? The Rush groups and forums howled that Baxter was behind it. And Richard himself disappeared from me after that. No more calls for help, no more offers to stay at his place before a clean up. In fact, there were no more clean ups, but the anonymous group requests kept coming, friend requests from people with odd names kept coming in. His webstore is still selling detritus from the place. His GoFundMe site is still there and its total donations is stalled at $7656, sickeningly short of a $100 000 goal. Thankfully only one donor has paid him anything in the last year. I pity that poor rube.
And right now, Le Studio sits there in the dark Laurentian wood, gutted and rotting, surrendering to the elements and succumbing to all the damage that it has sustained in the last 7 plus years. No one is interested in saving it now, not the ones that built it, not the ones that recorded in it and certainly not the ones that currently own it outright. Such a tragic end to such a beautiful place that housed so many powerful memories. It's fall is a blight on rock history. The apathy that it faces is outrageous, but nothing can be done now. It's now no more than castle made of sand, and it will slip into the sea, as all palaces are destined to do, eventually. Look at the floor, shake your head and sigh. Leave it behind.
I drove up there twice from Missouri in the past 12 months. When I was 10 in 1986, and I came home from the store with The Moving Pictures cassette tape (I was already a fanatic by that time), I remember going up to my parents' bedroom to get the atlas, so I could find Morin Heights on a map. It existed in my mind for 30 years as a mythical, magical place, where I could never go. When I finally made it happen last July, I could believe I found myself standing in that room. I took it all in for several hours, exploring most of the facility and the lake. My only regret was not taking any pictures of my own. I was also enjoying a 3 night camping stay at nearby Mont Tremblant National Park, which is amazing. Ever since my first visit, I couldn't get the place out of my mind. As much as I wanted to go back, I decided to plan a different vacation this past April, and go to Maine and PEI. In my planning, I thought, you know, you'll be so close to Quebec, it would be a real shame not to find a way to squeeze in a trip up to Le Studio. I loved it once again, and I still want to go back. I'd love to go up and help with cleanup. There were three vandals there while I was there. They were locals, at least, they were from Quebec, and therefore spoke mostly French. I spoke to them in the main studio. One guy had a camera. They looked like decent kids, and the last thing I thought was they were there to do damage. As I was wandering the complex, I thought it sounded like some commotion. I heard pounding, but didn't think much of it. It almost sounded like I heard people on the roof, but i dismissed that. At the very least, I thought those kids got up there to take pictures or something. Then I heard more pounding. Then eventually, I heard a bunch of glass shattering. Those assholes broke out a skylight. Before long, I was outside in front, and I saw a guy with a young girl riding up in a four wheeler. I believe his name was Mike, and he said he lived next door in Andre Perry's old house. He said they actuallly rent it out as a B&B. I wish I would have known that. I got to talking to him. It didn't occur to me until later that he probably came by to investigate the commotion. I was explaining my journey to visit the place as a Rush fan. Then I mentioned the 3 kids doing damage. On my own, as a solitary man, and a visitor from the United States, and not knowing French, I hadn't felt like I had any standing to confront those punk kids (but they didn't look like punk kids). But Michael brought some guys over from his house, and I think they confronted those kids. I wish I would have stuck around, but I actually had to be leaving. I hope they can secure that place as progress is made there. It is such a disaster though, I can tell it will require a complete and total gutting. I could see 3 to 4 dumpsters required. Got to get the roof and doors and windows and skylights repaired. Everything inside there has to go. It's all rotten. I hope it can be restored to its former glory. I hope to keep coming back.
ReplyDeleteHey Benjamin. Thanks for your story and your show of concern. I have the same hope as you. There needs to be a serious concerted effort to secure the site from vandals and the elements because with each passing day, the forces of nature are pushing it to the point of no return, where it will have to be condemned and torn down. I am not sure if Richard has the resources to do it. It will take some level of government and someone with REAL money to secure it and protect it, then begin the process of restoration. I am hopeful.
DeleteThanks; Kees
The three members of Rush should buy it and have the place restored to a clean solid building, then turn it into the Rush museum~
ReplyDelete